WARP + WEFT
Through the open windows of houses in this small village in rural India a rhythmic click clack can be heard. The sound is organic - it starts, it pauses; it gets faster, it slows down, it starts again. It is not from a machine but rather the sound that a pair of skilled hands and feet make as they gracefully manipulate the strings, pedals, and threads of silk in front of them. The skills, passed down for generations, from father to son, are forming intricate and complex patterns from only a simple idea of crossing warp and weft together and yield not only rich textiles, but pieces of art. Though once coveted, coming into the 21st century, the appreciation for this craft is waning in the face of less expensive and faster industrial techniques for production of fabrics. Varanasi’s famed jacquard handloom industry is slowly dying as more and more sons who would have traditionally followed in their father’s footsteps are choosing other economic opportunities that promise a more prosperous livelihood.
During the 4 years I lived and worked with these families of weavers I learned first hand the challenges they faced not only economically, but socially. Despite their incredible technical skills and inherited knowledge they are largely part of the dalit, or untouchable, class and struggle to earn the respect that they deserve. It is their hope to restore dignity in their work and instill a sense of pride, as well as an ability to earn a sustainable future, for the future generations.